Saturday, March 8, 2014

A Grits Bar and Louisiana Lagniappe


I will just go ahead and tell you that this post is EXTREMELY long. I just can't help myself. That is why the post is entitled: "A Grits Bar and Louisiana Lagniappe" (pronounced lan-yap; meaning a little something extra). Somehow, in this post, I have included a lot of something extra: everything from a recommendation for the best Chef's knife to links to video of a singing New Orleans street vendor. There are just too many topics to cover when one is celebrating Mardi Gras. Just so you are prepared, here is a summary:

1. Cooking Class: The Grits Bar
2. The recipe (includes advice & recommendations) for your own grits bar
3. The New Orleans inspiration for the Grits Bar (includes history & recipe)
4. The Duplantier Mardi Gras celebration
  • Stuffed Artichoke Soup (includes recipe & more)
  • Our King Cake
  • Our extended family at Mardi Gras with Mr. Okra
To celebrate Mardi Gras in cooking class, I had about 1000 ideas. With the City of New Orleans as inspiration, anything is possible. So, to refine my ideas I sat myself down in front of Mrs. Nancy's desk. My friends, if ever you have an idea but find yourself stuck, need a different idea, or are simply looking for inspiration in general, do yourself a favor: sit in front of Mrs. Nancy's desk and chat it up with her. She is filled with ideas. We discussed the possibility of making po' boys, mini King Cakes, King Cake cookies, Bread pudding, muffallatas, and pralines. I cannot take any credit for the idea of the grits bar (and while Mrs. Dory, a self-proclaimed Yankee, was screaming for "porridge")--it was all Mrs. Nancy's idea. In our discussion, Mrs. Nancy reminded me of the absolutely fantastic dish in New Orleans cuisine called Grillades and Grits...which became our inspiration for this Grits Bar. (My husband's Uncle Sandy makes THE best grillades and grits you have ever tasted and his recommendation for a recipe will be featured later in the post.)
Yes. Here I am wielding a knife with Nolan from the Yellow Room. Throughout the year, I have been integrating the Chef's knife into the Red and Blue Room classes, but it has been going so well that I decided to expand it to all the classes. And, such a big part of cooking with fresh ingredients requires utilizing a Chef's Knife, so I thought it would be appropriate to discuss proper technique. With every class, I emphasized that the #1 rule of using a knife is that a grown-up has to be present. Everyone seemed clear on that, so we talked about what NOT to do first, which is to bang the knife on the cutting board. Instead, we rocked our knife back and forth, never letting it leave the surface of the cutting board. We sliced scallions and grape tomatoes and the kids did a great job listening to my instruction. Unfortunately, because I was assisting them, I didn't take a whole lot of pictures of this step. Mrs. Karin thought to grab the iPad and snap a photo while I was working with the Yellow Room. Also, if you are in the market for a Chef's Knife, this is the one I recommend. The Global knife is recommended by chefs far greater than I. Anthony Bourdain mentions the Global knife in his very entertaining book, Kitchen Confidential; great read for those interested in cooking.




We chopped baby portobello mushrooms in the vegetable chopper, then sauteed them for a bit...


We also sauteed diced pancetta...
Then, our grits bar was ready for service! Here are the grits bar selections: diced scallions, sauteed baby portobello mushrooms, sauteed pancetta, sliced grape tomatoes and shredded cheddar cheese.





Everyone lined up with their bowl of grits, then chose the toppings that they wanted to try!


So, I took a poll to determine how many of the kids had ever tried grits....only about 15% said yes. ("Gasp!", says the girl from South Carolina). However, I was pleasantly surprised to see how open the kids were to trying grits in this very savory form. It is just so cool to see a 4 year old eat sauteed mushrooms! If there was time at the end of class, I read The Cajun Cornbread Boy by Dianne de Las Casas and How to Dress a Po' Boy by Johnette Downing.

Quotes of the day: "I really, really, really like these grits." and, in contrast, "I don't really like the white stuff."

Make Your Own Grits Bar

Grits: So, just in case you were wondering, Instant Grits do NOT, by any means, count as grits. The manufacters of this product should be ashamed of themselves because, in my opinion, if instant grits are your first experience of ever trying grits, then you are likely to never try them again. Out there, in the world, are 5-minute grits. Please, please, please, if you plan to make grits, buy these and spend the extra 4 minutes it takes to cook them. Follow the instructions on the bag or container for the appropriate serving. If you run into trouble, here are some tips:

1. If your kitchen starts to smell like popcorn, run (do not walk) to your kitchen and lower the temperature, add some water and furiously stir.
2. If you have time to cook them longer than 5 minutes, put a lid on your pot and try it. The longer they cook, the more delicious they are. you can't ruin grits by cooking them too long. You may have to add a lot more water along the way, but they will be delicious.
3. If they start to have lumps, use a whisk to release them. Easy solution.
4. If they seem too thick, add some water, whisk them around, cover the pot with a lid.
5. If they seem too thin, leave the lid off and keep them at a simmer.
6. If you ever come across Dixie Lilly Grits (mostly sold in the deeper South than Northern Virginia), buy them. You will thank yourself.
7. Try Stone Ground Grits. Try Yellow Grits. Both delicious.
8. Try using chicken stock or milk in addition to or in lieu of water.
9. Do not ever use the singular form of grits, (i.e. grit)...this word does not refer to a speck of grits on ones shirt. I'm actually not sure what a grit is.
10. Try Shrimp and Grits whenever you get the chance.

My Really Easy Kid-Friendly Suggested Toppings:
1. Diced cherry tomatoes
2. Pancetta: Trader Joe's sells packages of diced pancetta.
3. Sauteed baby Portobello mushrooms: again, Trader Joe's
4. Diced scallions
5. Shredded sharp cheddar cheese

Southern Living Magazine recommends these ideas for your next Grits Bar:
1. Boiled Shrimp and Easy Creole Sauce
2. Bourbon Mushrooms, Spinach, Swiss and Bacon
3. Chopped Ham and Shredded Cheddar
4. Caramelized Onions and Shredded Smoked Gruyere
5. Shredded Barbecued Pork, BBQ Sauce and Sauteed Spinach

The Inspiration for the Grits Bar
Grillades and Grits (pronounced: gree-yahdz)

So, last fall, my sister-in-law got married in New Orleans. Uncle Sandy and Aunt Susie offered to cater brunch for 60 people the morning after the wedding at my husband's grandmother's house, featuring Grillades and Grits as the main dish. Uncle Sandy recommends using the recipe from The Encyclopedia of Cajun and Creole Cuisine by Chef John Folse. This 842 page book includes more than 700 "time-tested" recipes that include influences from Native American and African customs and traditional recipes brought to Louisiana by the French, Spanish, German, English and Italian settlers. While it contains traditional recipes for Red Beans and Rice, Crawfish Etouffee, and White Chocolate Bread Pudding, it also features recipes entitled: "Front Porch Carrot Bisque", "Death by Gumbo", "Cane Syrup Vinaigrette", and "Chilled Watermelon Soup". Yum.

Here is what Chef Folse says about Grillades; "The origin of grillades has been the subject of many arguments in Bayou Country. It is believed that the dish originated when the country butchers preparing the boucherie sliced thin pieces of fresh pork and pan-fried these with sliced onions. The cooking took place, most feel, in black pots over the boucherie fires. The grillades were then eaten over grits or rice throughout the day. Today, grillades and grits are a tradition on many Sunday brunch menus. Most recipes call for veal round pounded lightly and smothered in its natural juices. One of the things I find most interesting about grillades is that it is one of those dishes that has a place on all rungs of the social ladder. Grillades may be found on the sharecropper's breakfast table or on the grand buffets of New Orleans." 


Grillades (page 513):
Ingredients:
2 medium round steaks
salt and cracked pepper to taste
1 cup of flour
1/4 cup of shortening or bacon drippings
1 cup minced onions
1 cup minced celery
1/2 cup minced bell peppers
1 cup diced tomatoes
1 cup thinly sliced green onions
1/4 cup minced garlic
3 cups of beef stock
1 cup sliced mushrooms
1/4 cup chopped parsley

Method:
Cut round steaks into 3-inch squares. Season with salt and cracked pepper. Dust pieces generously with flour and set aside. In a heavy bottomed Dutch oven, heat shortening over medium high heat. Saute meat until brown on all sides. Add onions, celery, bell peppers, tomatoes, green onions and garlic. Saute 3-5 minutes or until vegetables are wilted. Pour in beef stock, bring to a low boil then reduce to simmer. Cover Dutch oven and allow grillades to cook slowly for approximately 45 minutes. Stir occasionally to keep seasonings from scorching. once tender, add mushrooms and parsley. adjust seasoning if necessary and cook 10 minutes. Serve over grits. 

Cheese Garlic Grits Souffle
Ingredients:
1 cup stone-ground grits
1 1/2 cups of shredded sharp cheddar cheese
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 garlic clove, crushed
2 cups water
2 cups milk
1/2 tsp salt
2 tbsps unsalted butter
1/2 tsp ground white pepper
dash of Worcestershire sauce
Louisiana hot sauce to taste
4 eggs, separated

Method:
Preheat over to 350 degrees. In a large saucepan, heat water and milk over medium-high heat. Bring mixture to a rolling boil, then add salt. Slowly stir in grits and reduce heat to simmer. Continue to cook grits approximately 20 minutes, stirring often. Grits should be quite thick and creamy. Remove grits from heat and stir in cheese, garlic, butter, pepper, Worcestershire and hot sauce. Allow to cool slightly. In a small mixing bowl, beat egg yolks lightly with a fork. Pour beaten yolks into grits and stir until well blended. In a separate mixing bowl, whisk egg whites until soft peaks form, then fold into grits. Butter a deep 2-quart baking dish. Pour batter into dish and bake approximately 30 minutes or until lightly browned and well-puffed.

Some notes from Uncle Sandy:
"I like a mix of brown roux and beef stock and then tomatoes." 
"It is 2 lbs round steak.. Lots of folks use veal...also its ok to use beef which is in the original dish. Veal is more tender and more expensive, but tends to dry out faster. I like either one just as much."

My Family's Mardi Gras Celebration

Our Fat Tuesday was spent at home this year...in the snow.

Our Fat Tuesday Cuisine

Usually, on Fat Tuesday, I make Jambalaya and I always use my husband's Aunt Louise's recipe. But, this year, my daughter, at 7am, asked if we could go sledding, so I had to prioritize my day. Since I didn't get the chance to go to the grocery store before the snow, I decided to make Giada's Stuffed Artichoke Soup because I had all of the ingredients in my refrigerator. If you have ever been to New Orleans or to a New Orleans inspired restaurant, you may have tasted Stuffed Artichokes. They are extremely delicious and extremely rich, prepared with lots of breading and lots of olive oil.

Here is an image of a Stuffed Artichoke, which I took from google images...trust me when I tell you that I did NOT make this version, but aren't they beautiful?

When I came across Giada de Laurentiis's recipe for Stuffed Artichoke Soup, I couldn't wait to try it. I like this recipe for so many reasons. First, Giada uses a potato and just a couple of tablespoons of mascarpone cheese to thicken the soup, instead of a lot of oil or heavy cream. Second, she kind-of deconstructs the stuffed artichoke to create toppings for the soup; this seems to be what makes the soup so delicious. Confession: While I did make the "Stuffed Topping", please let me share with you that I did not go to the trouble of making the homemade croutons. Instead, I simply threw a couple of pieces of Udi's gluten free bread in the toaster oven and cut it into small squares. Sometimes, you just have to improvise. This soup is so delicious, you just won't believe it.

Giada's Stuffed Artichoke Soup
Ingredients (4 servings)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 leeks, white part only, washed well and chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1 small potato, peeled and chopped
1 (8-ounce) package frozen artichoke hearts, thawed
2 cups chicken stock
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons softened mascarpone cheese

Stuffed Topping
3 tablespoons chopped flat leaf parsley
2 tablespoons chopped mint
2 tablespoons chopped basil
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
¾ pound Roma tomatoes, seeded and chopped
2 tablespoons drained and rinsed capers
3 ounces Italian bread croutons*

Instructions:
Heat olive oil in a heavy, large pot over medium heat. Add the leeks and the garlic
and stir. Add the potatoes and cook for 5 minutes, stirring often. Add the artichokes,
stock, salt, and pepper and cook until the vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes.
Using a handheld immersion blender, or in a blender in batches*, puree the soup.
Add the 2 tablespoons mascarpone and blend again to combine.
Ladle the soup into serving bowls.

*When blending hot liquids: Remove liquid from the heat and allow to cool for at
least 5 minutes. Transfer liquid to a blender or food processor and fill it no more than
halfway. If using a blender, release one corner of the lid. This prevents the vacuum
effect that creates heat explosions. Place a towel over the top of the machine, pulse
a few times then process on high speed until smooth.

Stuffed Topping: Gently toss everything together. Place a good spoonful on top of the finished soup
and drizzle with olive oil.
Cook's Notes: To make the croutons, toss 3 ounces of 1/4 inch cubes of Italian bread with 3
tablespoons of olive oil and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Bake at 400 degrees for 4 to 5 minutes
or until golden brown and toasted.

The King Cake
In our house this year, we ordered a King Cake from a New Orleans bakery called Gambino's. My husband's family also recommends Manny Randazzo's as an alternative. Having a King Cake mailed to you from New Orleans is ridiculously expensive, (it will run you about $50) but it is just so much fun...and besides, its once a year! Another advantage of ordering a King Cake from New Orleans is that the little plastic baby is ALWAYS baked inside the cake. However, the bakeries around our area will include a baby, but most of them do not bake it inside for liability reasons. So boring.
The cake from Gambino's arrives un-iced, which is great for the kids. But, not all King Cakes will arrive un-iced, so make sure you ask before you order. Here are my kids decorating our King Cake, intent on their task.
Here is our finished product!

Mardi Gras in New Orleans and Mr. Okra
So, there are so many subject to share about Mardi Gras in New Orleans, but the one I want to share with you is the subject of Mr. Okra. Here is a picture of our extended family in front of Mr. Okra's truck during an afternoon Mardi Gras celebration. (Yes, the Duplantier family is obsessed with matching shirts, which is a subject that could serve as its own blog post and one that I will not expand on now). Mr. Okra, whose original name is Arthur Robinson, is a singing street vendor with a truck full of fresh vegetables and fruits. And, what a character! If your heart strings feel pulled to New Orleans and you want to be inspired by rich culture, then google him to learn more. He is something of a local celebrity and is an excellent embodiment of what it means to be from New Orleans. (A little warning: If you happen to click on a film clip, like this one (1 minute long) or this one (12 minutes long), make sure the kiddos are sound asleep. You are likely to hear a word or two that is only made for grown-up ears. Shew!) Mr. Okra's voice bellows out such a melodious tune: "I've got oranges and bananas! I've got watermelon and papaya!" all over a loud speaker, all through the streets of the City, and he loves what he does for a living. He is part of the City and the City loves him. Here is what myNewOrleans.com says about him: "To say Mr. Okra is just a vegetable peddler is to suggest a second-line parade is just a way to ease on down the road, or that an oyster po' boy is just a way to stave off hunger. Some of his most doting fans consider him a mobile totem of New Orleans culture."

Okay. That concludes my very long and varied blog post of the subject of Mardi Gras. Now, I need to go make a pot of grits!

1 comment:

  1. Thanks for this great post. I was surprised to hear that Anna liked grits!

    ReplyDelete